‘Every Cook Ought to Train At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Restaurant Earns Fourth on List of London’s Top Restaurants.

Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. However, situated prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family totally shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest shop securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.

Cynthia Harding
Cynthia Harding

A seasoned outdoor journalist and gear tester with over a decade of experience exploring rugged terrains across the UK and Europe.